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Sunbeamtech Tuniq 3 Mid Tower ATX Case Select the Dark Theme Select the Light Theme
Author: Michael Fiss
Manufacturer: Tuniq
Source: Tuniq
Purchase: PriceGrabber
Comment or Question: Post Here
Page: 3 of 6 [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ]
Sunbeamtech Tuniq 3 Mid Tower ATX Case
February 07, 2008

Internal Examination:

There are two thumbscrews on the window side of the Sunbeamtech Tuniq 3 Mid Tower ATX case, but the other side has regular screws. In the image below you can see the 3D Core-Fan bracket a little better. It extends from top to bottom and is secured by three screws (one on the top, two on the bottom). It can be used in two positions; the position where it is shown in the image, and about two inches to the left there is another set of screw holes. You will most likely need to remove the 3D Core-Fan bracket to install a power supply, motherboard, and any expansion cards.

Click Image For Larger View

In the below left image, you can see the seven expansion slots and a bunch of wires. Most of the wires are for the motherboard headers, the front LEDs, switches, and USB/audio ports. But the one unique item is the blue box which connects to the feet of the case for a CCFL (cold cathode fluorescent lighting), which has an on/off switch in the bottom expansion slot. In the below right image you can see the power supply area, I/O shield, and 120mm exhaust fan.

Click Image For Larger View Click Image For Larger View

The case does make use of many tool-less features, but you are going to need a screw driver anyway, since you have to remove the 3D Core-Fan bracket. The below left image shows the three slot hard drive cage and two external 3.5" device bays. There are rails provided that pop into the screw holes of any 3.5" hard drive, and for the external 3.5" devices you will slide the device into the bay and snap the plastic clip into place. In the below right image we see the five 5.25" device bays, which use the same installation method as the external 3.5" devices, slide the device into the bay and snap the plastic clip into place.

Click Image For Larger View Click Image For Larger View

When removing the front bezel you need to grip it from the bottom and lift. I really hate this design as I always feel like I am a snap away from breaking one of the six plastic pieces that hold the front bezel to the metal chassis. You also need to be careful to not pull too hard on the wires that are routed through a small hole, and I wouldn't try to remove the front bezel with the wires connected to a motherboard. In the below left image you can see the front bezel removed, and now is the time you want to plan which bays you will be using and remove the metal and plastic covers. If you want to add an intake fan to the front of the case, now is a good time for that, too. With the front panel removed you can also see the small circuit board for "front" USB and audio connections. If you look closely you can see that the area is mapped out for a Firewire connection, but it seems like they just went cheap and left it out.

Click Image For Larger View Click Image For Larger View

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