Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 2129 Location: Up to my Nipples in Alaska
Posted: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 02:41:08 Post Subject:
NOOOOO, that chip has been my best friend through thick and thin. It was my first ebay victory almost a year and a half ago with a bid of $18.00!!!! (Is it wrong to get attached to computer crap???)
And I'm attached to my battle worn Slot A Athlon 700 and Epox KX133 chipset mobo, so I understand. _________________ Due to a not-that-interesting turn of events, I am now known as Justin Danger.
Very nice article! Hey maybe after you practice on that duron maybe you could do it on your 1700+? Because what I want to know is if both surfaces are brought to a mirror finish following this guide is there a need for any TIM at all?? No TIM=LOWEST TEMPS POSSIBLE!!!! Thats what I would like to see.
Edit: Oh and from other lapping guides i've read they all recommend to lap in a figure 8 pattern. While yours is the first to say to lap in a lateral motion. I see the nice results of your method but what is the difference?
P.S: I repeat this is the best lapping guide i've read and will use it for all my future heatsinks.
The reason is quite simple, you end up with less scratches. Sanding in a circular motion is great for removing material quickly, but not for getting the best finish you can. _________________ Due to a not-that-interesting turn of events, I am now known as Justin Danger.
I just acquired a Tower112 heatsink by Thermaltake. Ya know, the snap-mobo-in-half-due-to-excess-weight thing. The base is rough, so I looked up some lapping information to see if it differs in method from other metal polishing.
Same thing. I've been polishing aluminum on vehicles for a while (200 hours on a single piece! ).
Just a note regarding initial sanding. To achieve a mirror polish on aluminum, when you're sanding with higher and higher paper grades, go at right angles to the previous direction of sanding. This brakes the ridges easier and faster, is easier to observe your work and sometimes sanding in the same direction with a higher grade paper can mask a lower grade ridge. I've seen this plenty on aluminum when working in a confined area where you can't get at right angles to the previous work. The lower grit line then shows up when buffing the area.
Also, that other argument mentioned earlier in the thread, my opinion is that best heat transfer is metal to metal. 2 smooth surfaces can also allow better spread of heat. Best heat dissipating is across large surface area, a cast surface texture has more surface area than a smooth one.
As for lapping a CPU... best use a rasp file. Sorts anything out.
Joined: 07 Apr 2003 Posts: 16854 Location: New Jersey
Posted: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 17:51:39 Post Subject:
Hi... Welcome.
I guess you have two options... 1) Grab that big thing and hold on tight! 2) Take the copper base off and just work with that. Once you put it back together you might be able to improve the contact between the heatpipes and base by upgrading the thermal paste and maybe its application. _________________
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