Joined: 07 Apr 2003 Posts: 16854 Location: New Jersey
Posted: Wed, 25 May 2005 07:03:29 Post Subject: DFI Lanparty nF4 Ultra-D/SLI-DR Thermal Images
This time around we take a look at some thermal images of DFI’s latest creations, the Lanparty nF4 Ultra-D and SLI-DR. The majority of the images shown in this article are of the DFI Lanparty nF4 Ultra-D with the exception of the last three. Everyone knows the importance of cooling computer components, and we'll see what areas on these boards may need extra cooling for optimum performance. - The Article
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Last edited by Jason on Fri, 28 Apr 2006 09:38:22; edited 2 times in total
there is one thing i think that should be done differently though
i know lots of people actively cool the PWM-IC area and the RAM which is nearby the cpu fan...
also for me this brings a huge stabilty increase when overclocking...
without active cooling i could clock to maximum 10x241Mhz and 10x246 allmost stable
with VERY active cooling on that area (loud 120mm fan) i could go as high as 10x260Mhz (i have a winchester 3200+ with a sucky memcontroller)
now this was all with a amd boxed cooler which, like yours, cools the RAM and PWM-IC area ALOT too...
i currently run 10x241mhz without active cooling, since i coulnt stand the noise
in the future i wanted to go for watercooling, and i would expect a major difference of heat of the RAM or the PWM-IC area
so actually i am more intrested in thermal pics of a watercooled system then an aircooled system (AND sucky airflow would even be better to show the problem areas )
i also heart some people ask about the difference when u use the 4V option for the RAM on the DFI board (for which u would prolly need to test with some UTT or BH-5 mem)
personally i dont need those pics with my corsair 4400C25 mem @ 2.6V but if u wanne be really complete...
but still, very nice article, hope to see a followup soon
hello m8 i signed just for this, could you please take the same pictures (thermal ones) but using the 5v jumper and give the mobo at least 3.6v vdimm
im interested in the hot spots since many people is having problems with the jumper in 5v position
great article.
p.d. dont try to give those voltages to your g. skill you'll need son windbond chips.
p.d. 2 could you tell me whats the method you used to take this thermal pics, i have 2 nikon cameras one digital (d70) an non digital (N65 or something like that) i've been reading and i found that could be posible to take this kinda pics with some ir films (have some limitations but might work) i also found a company that sells specializaed thermal cameras, but were quite pricy.
Joined: 31 May 2005 Posts: 1 Location: Vancouver BC.CA
Posted: Tue, 31 May 2005 22:39:24 Post Subject:
[B]
I am in awe, of a few of the very hot spots your
thermal viewer photos reveal.
On occasion, I have used a temperature probe with readout.
Now your photos show myself, where i should try **
because I have missed some. My feeling over the years is that
the hot spots are areas of potential failure, or early failure, or
areas where performance could be degraded.
With disposable Motherboards , the cost to repair is high...
one can go for the best stable point for the best of performance..
That sort of raises the question 1. Just what is a stable point
for an overclock board. It seems, the maximum heat, that can be
sustained over a prolonged periond of use, * Like continually in
a RSS mode. OR ! ? The photos do amaze me. Thanks... _________________ RTG.
Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 1125 Location: Suburbs of BFE
Posted: Tue, 31 May 2005 23:17:59 Post Subject:
Thanks for the comments everyone.
It is possible to take some additional photos in the future, although it is a difficult proceedure for just a couple photos at a time. Perhaps after i do some mods or upgrades?
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 2130 Location: Up to my Nipples in Alaska
Posted: Tue, 31 May 2005 23:30:00 Post Subject:
Yea, what he said ^^^
If you figure in the time to get the equipment ready (and packed home from the double secret laboratory), take the pic, transfer the images to a PC, process the image (they are in a temperature based proprietary format), then get them converted to .jpg, you might be looking at almost an hour per image, not to mention the time it takes to match it to a regular digital pic.
We can and plan to do some more stuff in the future, but getting just one pic is not worth the time.
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